The Forgotten National Park

Secret paths hidden among lush green jungle vegetation and mirror-blue waters filled with princess-pink flamingo colonies. That is merely the beginning of what Axios Delta National Park has to offer. But no one seems to know about this place.

A short 15-minute bus ride from Thessaloniki and we are in Kalochori, a small suburban area and the gateway to another world. As the streets and the houses end, we are met by a ruby red road, swirling between two bodies of blue water and into the park. In the background, just a rock’s throw away, lies Thessaloniki. Going from the Greek city’s urban concrete environment to the luxuriant wetlands is quite the contrast.

The red road leading into the national park. Kalochori and Thessaloniki are in the background.

Three river deltas run into the Thermaic Gulf and give life to the vast, flat landscape. The Axios, Loudias and Aliakmonas rivers. The park’s full name is the “Axios-Loudias-Aliakmonas Delta National Park”, but using only “Axios” is common. Each year the national park becomes the home to thousands of birds such as pelicans, flamingos, mallards and the glossy ibis. But birds are not the only creatures that benefit from the rich habitat. Bigger animals such as wild horses and water buffalos can be seen in some areas, and on sunny days, snakes like to bake in the warm sun. Just like Thessaloniki, Kalochori has many stray dogs. They can often be found inside the park, where some are being taken care of by local fishermen.

A group of flamingos are sometimes called a "flamboyance"

When there is no wind, even the sea lies perfectly still. The water becomes a mirror. In the right light, the horizon disappears and the sea becomes the sky. Then the cool ocean breeze rolls in. The clear blue surface is rippled with waves, and the scent of salty seawater seeps up the nose and tickles the brain. Many choose to experience the park by car or bike. Gravel roads stretch many miles through the otherwise rugged landscape, allowing visitors to discover most of the far-reached corners. The distances are simply too big to cover by foot. However, only the leather tramps, people willing to overcome a blister or two, are able to go off the beaten paths. To go where few have been before, to find their own way, and to rewrite their maps.

A stray dog rests with Kalochori in the background.

To find the most hidden and mysterious places, you must go off-road. But beware of snakes

Asking the locals in Thessaloniki, surprisingly few have been to the national park, and surprisingly many have never even heard of it. Especially considering its proximity to the city and the cheap one-euro bus tickets. So if you have a day to spend in Thessaloniki, remember the forgotten national park.